![]() ![]() Thanks for explaining that.ĭepending on what tools / equipment the OP has. I was scratching my head why the plate came off and not the other part (the tube) but now I understand. I originally thought it was simply a long bolt holding the plate on and running through the tube into the nutsert. To the O/P you referred to the car you're taking the plate from as "RIP" - is cutting into it to allow access to the nutsert directly (or to cut around it so the bit the nutsert is installed in drops completely out of the car, leaving a hole) an option?Ĭlick to expand.Aha. If he's unable to immobilize the nutsert via sideways pressure/prying while unscrewing, there's only one other option - cut out the bit of the car's frame where the nutsert is, and unscrew it once the whole thing's out of the car. This is why I and a couple others have suggested trying to put sideways pressure on the tube (as if you were trying to bend the bit of the frame it's connected to) in order to try and force the nutsert to bite enough to let him get the two apart. The problem the O/P is having is not getting the plate off the bottom of the tube (which your "grinding off the head of the bolt" suggestion applies to), it's that when he tries to unscrew the tube from the nutsert in the frame, the nutsert is spinning instead of gripping the frame metal and allowing the tube (and, more importantly, the stud installed in the tube) to spin within the nutsert. The "tube" to body/frame is a blind attachment - the stud connecting the tube to the frame is completely hidden by the tube, and there's no access into the frame cavity to get pliers on the nutsert unless he starts cutting into the car's frame around where tube is attached. If memory serves (I installed my plate 15 years ago, so I'm working from OLD memory here), the stud appeared to be pressed into the tube, so you can't just unscrew the tube from the stud either - for good or ill, the tube and stud are one assembly and will NOT come apart easily. A bolt (with washer) then passes through the hole in the plate and threads into the insert in the tube to secure the plate. Then you lift the plate into position, which aligns holes in the plate with the threaded insert at the bottom of the tube. You put one nutsert into the frame of the car, and then screw the stud end of the tube into it until it's tight against the frame (then repeat on the other side). The tube has a threaded stud at one end, and a threaded insert at the other. ![]() This is an old Evolution design (my Atlas plate is vintage 2006, and has the same mounts). I'll give it a good test drive to make sure it holds and then rivet the home made panel back into place.Andy, I think you're misunderstanding what he's dealing with: Here she is all bolted back together again. If not I'll just have to pull that part of the floor back up again. Hopefully if I ever have to pull the mount the JB will keep the bolt in place and I won't have to dig into my trunk again. I decided to mount them with the bolt part facing downwards and put a bit of JB weld on the head of the bolt. I went to NAPA and got a couple grade 10.9 bolts and nuts with flanged ends. The plate the capture nut was welded to seems to still be in good shape so I decided to just bolt the mount back into the current metal. ![]() The damage seemed localized to to the captured nut so I vacuumed out the rail and hit up the top and bottom with some rust reform. I figured rust was the main culprit it got into the trunk and ate the floor away and then into the chassis rail. So I cut an access point into some of the remaining trunk floor. I pulled off the home made plate to reveal that I do in fact have access to the top of where the mount bolts to if I remove the floor. All better now it wasn't as hard as I had feared. ![]()
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